Gran Turismo A-Class License Winning Strategies Guide Sony Computer Entertainment/Polyphony Digital for the Sony PlayStation 1 Console Compiled by Mark Kim (Vesther Fauransy) Revision 0.7.2 Date of Completion: February 14, 2000 (No Time Given) Date of Public Release: February 14, 2000 (No Time Given) Copyright Information --------------------- Unpublished work trademarked (tm) and copyrighted (c) by Mark Kim. All Rights Reserved. This file is SHAREWARE and is strictly for entertainment use only. In addition, this file can only be HTMLized by the sole owner of the file (Mark Kim) and by Joel Downs (http://www.gamers.com), regardless whether the content is good or bad. 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Note that whenever I give credit, I WILL NOT REVEAL ANY E-MAIL ADDRESSES AND/OR OTHERWISE in order to protect the privacy of the people for whom I give credit to. This file has been carefully written by Mark Kim in respect to all copyrights, patents, and trademarks. Gran Turismo is developed by Polyphony Digital under license by Sony Computer Entertainment, Inc. This game is copyrighted 1997, 1998 Sony Computer Entertainment. All Rights Reserved. The cars, images, and all cars' likeliness are registered trademarks and copyrights of its respective owners. All Rights Reserved. This FAQ was created by Mark Kim in respect to Sony, Polyphony Digital, Mazda, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Mitsubishi, Aston Martin, Chevrolet, Nissan, TVR, Dodge, and Subaru Properties, as I have no intention of infringement on copyright on any of this work. I'LL MAKE THIS SIMPLE: THIS FILE IS MINE AND THERE IS NO UNAUTHORIZED USE OF IT!!!! I DIDN'T WRITE THIS FILE SO THAT YOU CAN MAKE ANY CRAP MONEY OUT OF THIS WORK!!! I DIDN'T WRITE THIS FILE SO THAT SOME SORRY CRAP-WRITER CAN JUST PLACE ANY SINGLE DROPLET OF THIS FAQ INTO A COMMERCIAL PUBLICATION, SLACK-OFF, AND GET PAID FOR IT!!! AND I DIDN'T WRITE THIS FAQ SO THAT SOME COPYCATTER CAN JUST CLAIM CREDIT FOR IT, WHICH IS CONSIDERED STEALING AND PLAGIARISING. ONLY FIVE WEBSITES ARE ALLOWED TO MIRROR THIS WORK BECAUSE EITHER I OR ANY OTHER FAQ WRITER THAT I KNOW HAVE TRUST IN THESE SITES (a.k.a. The websites I've mentioned in this copyright header). I don't want to waste my voice anymore on this paragraph, though. It is to remain in one piece, free of charge, and in its original state at all costs. ======================================================================== GENERAL INFORMATION Make: Gran Turismo Developer: Polyphony Digital Publisher: Sony Computer Entertainment Release Date: First Quarter 1998 ESRB Classification: E for Everyone, Suitable for All Ages Genre: Racing Platform: Sony PlayStation Type 1 MSRP: $49.99 US Recommended Controllers: Sony Analog Dual-Shock Controller Features: Memory Card Save. Each save requires in between 1-5 blocks. ======================================================================== HISTORY OF THIS FAQ Version 0.2 (August 26, 1998) ----------------------------- Having played many games of the A-Class Series, I've managed to pull off a decent FAQ regarding about the series of championship events that you can participate once you get your A-Class License. Remember, you must obtain your licenses in the following order: B Class, A Class, and finally, the pain-in-the-ass International A Class. Version 0.5 (September 14, 1998) -------------------------------- Added the A-Class License Examinations and attempted to describe some pointers. There are some hard tests in the A-Class overall. Version 0.6.1 (March 19, 1999) ------------------------------ Just a minor update touching some legalese and that February 14, 2000 ----------------- I HATE VALENTINE'S DAY!!!!! To counter my hatred towards Valentine's Day, I'd better start off with the major uphaul of this A-Class License Guide. This is the first update in a long time so I highly recommend that you read it over and over again to see what twists and turns that I might have included. Also, be on a lookout for any bugs. If you see any, then please let me know about this so that I can fix them right away. I had to add a Frequently Asked Questions section so that the dumbest questions can be answered. ======================================================================== CONTENTS OF THIS FAQ * Newsflash * Some recommendations * What is an A Class License? * A-Class License Examinations = Practical Cornering Part 1 = Practical Cornering Part 2 = Practical Cornering Part 3 = Advanced Cornering Part 1 = Advanced Cornering Part 2 = Advanced Cornering Part 3 = Powersliding = Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam) * Clubman Cup * GT Cup * Japanese and American Car Championship * Japanese and British Car Championship * American and British Car Championship * Megaspeed Championship * Commercial Car Championship * The Do's and Dont's * Some Rants * Resources and Stuff * Acknowledgements * One Final Warning ======================================================================== NEWSFLASH ***AN IMPORTANT RANT FROM THE FAQ AUTHOR*** AS YOU SHOULD HAVE NOTICED FROM MY PREVIOUS WORKS, I WILL _NOT_ BE ACCEPTING ANY E-MAILS FROM ANY WEBMASTER WHO SEEKS TO PLACE THIS FILE ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE. THIS IS BECAUSE THERE ARE TOO MANY SITES THAT _STILL_ HAS THE OUTDATED VERSION OF MY WORKS AND I REALLY HATE TO SEE IT LURKING AROUND THE INTERNET. THE REASON WHY I HAVE TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF WEBSITES THAT CAN MIRROR MY WORKS IS BECAUSE I WANT TO KEEP MY WORKS CURRENT AND UP-TO-DATE. ANY MORE E-MAILS REQUESTING PERMISSION TO MIRROR THIS FILE _WILL_ BE FILTERED. THE ONLY SITES THAT HAVE MY SEAL OF APPROVAL TO MIRROR MY WORKS ARE THE SITES LISTED IN THE COPYRIGHT INFORMATION IN THE BEGINNING OF EVERY OF MY WORKS. IF FOR ANY REASON YOU _DO_ MIRROR ANY OF MY WORKS ON YOUR OWN WEBSITE WITHOUT MY SEAL OF APPROVAL, INSTANT LEGAL ACTION WILL BE TAKEN IMMEDIATELY. I APPRECIATE YOUR COOPERATION IN THIS MATTER AND AGAIN, THE ANSWER WILL _ALWAYS_ BE NO IF FOR ANY REASON IF YOU WANT TO PLACE THIS FILE INSIDE YOUR WEBSITE REGARDLESS OF THE CAUSE AND WHETHER THE CONTENT FROM ANY OF MY WORKS IS EITHER GOOD OR BAD. THIS HAS BEEN MY POLICY EVER SINCE I HAVE STARTED TO RESTRICT THE AMOUNT OF SITES THAT ARE PERMITTED TO MIRROR MY WORKS AND IT WILL ALWAYS BE. Note: This notice is derived on Brett Nemesis Franklin's Crazy Taxi FAQ for the Sega Dreamcast although there has been some variations to make this one more severe and a bit more formal. Also, I will repeat this near the end of the document. As always, newer versions of this FAQ can be found first at my own web site located at http://www.verasnaship.net. If you have any fixes or any other tralala you want to share with me, then use the convenient e-mail form at http://www.verasnaship.net/emailme.html. I grant you permission to e-mail me at the aforementioned URL as described herein. E-Mailing me directly to my mailbox using an E-Mail Client is STRICTLY FORBIDDEN. This document, like all Video Game FAQs on the Internet, must be viewed in a monotype font or the alignment will not be correct. If the alignment isn't correct for any reason, then please follow these procedures: 1. On Netscape Communicator, click on Edit, then Preferences. 2. Click on Fonts at the Appearance Section 3. At the Fixed Width Font, select Courier New, and select size 10 point font. 4. If you see this sample bulk of writing aligned correctly, please proceed: 1234567890 ********** It is strongly advisable that you *do* view this document through the DOS Application Edit.COM or through the Apple Text Viewer SimpleText for alignment purposes. If you are planning to view this through the Windows Interface, then you are highly advised to open up WordPad and then open up the Text File. Set the font face to Courier New and set the font size to 10. ======================================================================== RECOMMENDATIONS 1. Since you must possess the B-Class License before you can get the A-Class License, go take and pass all 8 B-Class License Tests before taking the 8 A-Class License tests first. After you get the B-Class License, you may wish to get your A-Class License from this point, but I recommend that you go race all B-Class races first. 2. A good way to practice all of your skills in the Simulation Mode right after you get your B-Class License would be to play lots of games at the Sunday Cup to improve your skills. Although you don't earn too much credits for the B-Class Championship series, it's a steady way to upgrade your car. 3. Since you start with only 10,000 in a mint-vanilla data file, I highly recommend that you purchase a Toyota MA70Supra of some sorts because the acceleration and handling should suit your needs. I have to warn you though that unless you learn how to tame this used car, the MA70Supra will spin out pretty often, so it's important that you don't overspin the Rear Wheels. 4. Spot Races are a great way to improve your skills, but for Pole Positioning you will only earn 500 credits, and if you win the race, you will only get 1,000 credits. I would just get my B-License and participate in the Sunday Cup often instead. 5. Once you get enough credits, you may upgrade your MA70 Supra to suit your own tastes, or you can get certain cars that you want to commandeer. 6. After you get used to the Sunday Cup, try the B-Class special events to push your skills further, and once your skills are polished, I would start with the Clubman Cup first since you don't have to deal with some bad-ass tuned-up cars in the GT Cup. 7. There are bound to be restrictions on the car that you can ride on during the Special Event Championships. I'll pin-point any possible restrictions which may apply. 8. Gran Turismo is the most realistic racing game up to date, so I recommend that you just enjoy the game. Although you may get pissed just because the computer races unfairly, you should try to discover new techniques or/and routines to improve your skills. Having fun while playing Gran Turismo is the most important part that I'm asking of you. 9. PSM Online has a kick-ass Gran Turismo Guide you can read Online at http://www.psmonline.com. 10. Before YOU EVEN PLAY GRAN TURISMO, buy yourself a PlayStation Dual Shock Analog Controller. When you turn on your PlayStation, set the analog ON, because your thumb doesn't like to be rubbing the D-Pad for 2-3 hours. I recommend using this controller over the D-Pad because the Analog Stick is a lot more comfy (though takes time to master) than having to rub my thumb on the D-Pad. ======================================================================== SO WHAT THE HELL DOES THE A-CLASS LICENSE MEAN? An A-Class License means that you're entitled to participate in an even more vast array of courses than B-Class License Holders. You can participate in any race with the exception of the races that require the pain-in-the-ass International A Class License. What this license means to you is that you've mastered the more advanced techniques of cornering of hairpins, blind turns, and weird corridors, something that you should be proud of because you're capable of using an important skill in the world of Gran Turismo. Holding an A-Class License, you should be able to do the following according to Fukumoto Atsushi: - Knowing when to start cornering from a gruesomely long straight and from extreme high speeds. - Able to corner in weird turns, blind corners, complex curves, and all the pain-in-the-ass tralala at Special Stage Route 11. - Being able to avoid spinouts at all costs (Something that is more important in the A Class than in the B Class). And here are the races that you are now able to participate provided that you have won the A-Class License: * The GT League: - Clubman Cup - GT Cup * Special Events: - Japanese and American Car Championship - Japanese and British Car Championship - American and British Car Championship - Megaspeed Championship - Commercial Car Championship ======================================================================== A-CLASS LICENSE TEST EXAMINATIONS Note: In order to start taking these tests, you must pass all eight B-Class License Tests first. Index of tests: A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1 A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2 A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3 A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1 A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2 A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3 A-7: Powersliding A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam) Note: In order to take A-8, you must pass the first seven tests first. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-1: Practical Cornering Part 1 Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ Time Limit: 34"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: The final stretch, to the Starting Line, into the first hairpin of Deep Forest. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Accelerate, stay low on the final turn at Deep Forest, cut the apex of the first turn, and cross the finish line. The straightaway is a lot longer this time around. Although it sounds easy, your main concern is the first hairpin at Deep Forest, where you must keep your speed below 66 mph using out-and-in, slow-in, fast out without going off course, and since the Supra is on the heavy side (much to the fact that it has an understeer problem), you need to allow some time to slow down. Use the signs to slow down, and definitely brake from the outside of the turn. Start the turn when you are finished braking. Keep your foot off the pedal while braking, though. Try using rapid-tap when taking on the turn, but otherwise, it's too hard to explain for now, much to the fact that you're making an entrance to the first turn of Deep Forest at speeds of up to 135mph. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-2: Practical Cornering Part 2 Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ Time Limit: 27"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: The final stretch, to the Starting Line, into the first hairpin of Autumn Ring. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Accelerate, cut the apex of the final Ess at Autumn Ring, into the starting line, cut the apex of the first hairpin, and cross the finish line. The straightaway is long enough to make your life miserable, but shouldn't be as dizzy as with the first one but you still have to be concerned about the Supra's understeer and fat if you want to avoid any course-outs on Autumn Ring's first hairpin. I found the hairpin a lot sharper than Deep Forest's. Stay at the left side of the track while on the straightaway, and try to find a nice braking spot so that you can brake to no more than 50 mph (slower if you are sloppy), cut the apex, fast-out as the hairpin terminates, and cross the finish line. Very frustrating test as there are no hairpin signs to help you slow down ahead of time. Rapid-tap as you go inside the hairpin. Be careful when taking on this hairpin because the Supra RZ has a tendency to understeer. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-3: Practical Cornering Part 3 Test Car: Mazda RX-7 Time Limit: 44"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: Right after the worry-aboutie Chicanes, into the final stretch, through the finish line, onto the bent and the first hairpin and just before the gentle Ess at Grand Valley Speedway. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Accelerate, stay low on the final two turns of Grand Valley Speedway, into the starting line, and onto the gentle left bent and cut the apex of the first hairpin onto the finishing line. I really hate this test because you are taking on a right hairpin turn supported by a left bent. This is SARCASTICALLY DIZZY because a straight gives you more time to prepare for the hairpin than a slight bent, but you'll have to worry about the speed that you're entering the first hairpin since you're entering this one at 140+ mph. What I would do is to stay on the right side of the track, and move towards the left on the gentle bent, and using out-and-in, I would brake at a straight line to no more than 58 mph (my experimentation's limited here), cut the apex, rapid-tap, and fast-out of the turn. Dreadful because the left bent before the hairpin can throw off your timing pretty easily. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-4: Advanced Cornering Part 1 Test Car: Nissan Skyline GTR V Spec Time Limit: 39"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: The Tunnel Hairpin, into the kaye right after the dip, onto the medium right before the tunnel, and finally into the medium left before the straightaway at Trial Mountain. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The key to passing this test is to take all turns without any blatant slowing down. I consider this a tough test because you need to avoid hitting the walls. To pass the test, I would cut the apex of Turn 4 of Trial Mountain, then I try to use out-and-in, slow-in, fast-out at Turn 5, and take the Medium Right at around 85 mph (rapid-tap if you think you are going to touch the grass), and cut the apex blatantly (try to slow down ahead of time) taking the medium left before the straight at 75 mph. Try to keep a smooth racing line at all costs. The reasonable speed of the sharp right is 50 mph. You may want to try out all turns at higher speeds if necessary. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-5: Advanced Cornering Part 2 Test Car: Honda Prelude Time Limit: 30"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: After the second tight hairpin, onto the Medium Left, onto the Medium Right, and onto the Sharp Left before the tunnel at Grand Valley Speedway. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I'm glad that you're given a break here because you're on the wheel of a front-drive car right now. The ideal speed for the first two turns is 85 mph. I found the medium right a little sharper than the Medium Left. Be sure that you take advantage of the Prelude's Front Wheel Drive while taking on the first two turns. Try to cut the apex of all turns. The third turn before the Tunnel is your main concern. Cut your speed to around 50 mph, out-and-in, and fast-out as you exit the turn. Be careful not to frontup the Tunnel as this is grounds for immediate fail. You must be a careful driver in order to take the final sharp turn of this test with ease and zest! Powersliding on the final turn is OK, but be sure that you don't course-out at all, though. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-6: Advanced Cornering Part 3 Test Car: Toyota MR2 Time Limit: 27"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: Into the Deep Forest's Ess before the Medium Right before the tunnel, onto another Medium Right right after the first tunnel, onto the second tunnel and into the finish line at Deep Forest. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Your main concern in this test is the grass on both sides of the track. Touch the grass too long and you'll fail the test. Hit the beginning of the Tunnel and you'll fail the test as well. Ease up on the Forest Ess, and at the Left before the First Medium Right, brake slightly at a straight line, and cut the apex. Brake to under 70 mph for the first Medium Left, powerslide, and rapid-tap the pedal to maintain your speed. Take the second Medium left with out-and-in, slowin-fastout, and cross the finish line. Since the time limit's rather short, you need to keep a smooth racing line for as much as you can. You may have to increase your speed as your skills are getting better. An important rule while trying to cut the apex during the Forest Ess: Don't touch the grass as this is a sign that you are cutting the corners too blatantly. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-7: Powersliding Test Car: Subaru Impreza Time Limit: 33"000 Prerequsite: None Parts of the Test's Areas: This test takes place at a specialized ring that tests your skill in powersliding. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ No need for a lot of explanations here, since your goal is to simply powerslide throughout this special sliding area around 5 times. Be sure that you average about 6 seconds, and definitely take no more than 8 seconds for the first time around, and 5.5 Seconds for the remainder of the test. Spinning-out will result in severe time loss. You should try to powerslide all corners at all means. Failure to turn or blatant apex cutting will result in a failed test. Try to stay centered for as much as you can, and use a lot of rapid-tapping here. The ideal speed for each corner would be at around 30 mph. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A-8: Coping with Hairpins at High Speeds (Final Exam) Test Car: Toyota Supra RZ Time Limit: 1'08"000 Prerequsite: Must complete the first 7 A-Class Tests first Parts of the Test's Areas: Right after the worry-aboutie Chicane, onto the final stretch, onto the starting line, into the first hairpin supported by the gentle left bent, onto the rough Ess Curve, and into the final hairpin for the finish just before the two Medium Ess Curves at Grand Valley Speedway. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ This is the most difficult among the eight A-Class Examinations because you're required to make your entrance towards both hairpins of the Grand Valley Speedway at speeds of up to 145mph! Also, the Toyota Supra RZ is on the heavier side, and has a tendency to understeer, so you may have to apply a little powersliding with rapid-gas tapping in order to maintain your speed at the tight hairpins if you want to pass. Enough bitching about the difficulty of the test, here are some tactics: Final stretch of Grand Valley Speedway -------------------------------------- Stay as low as you can on these two turns, and use the Straightaway to milk up speed. The Gentle Left Bent and the Hairpin ------------------------------------ Stay at the right side of the track as you enter the Left Bent so you can cut the apex at the Left Bent. Use the final stretch of the Left Bent to prepare for the hairpin. The ideal speed for the first hairpin is under 60 mph and over 55 mph. Brake as soon as the left bent ends, and make sure that you keep your foot off the pedal as you brake, and just before you get to your desired speed, turn gently so that you'll slide. Turning too harsh while braking and accelerating will result in a spin-out, costing precious time. Rapid-tap during the hairpin to maintain your speed, and straighten up the car before the Ess. The Ess ------- Take on each of the ess out-and-in. Be careful of the Left Ess before the straight and the tighter hairpin because you may find yourself dizzy thereafter. The Final Hairpin ----------------- This hairpin is tighter than the first one. Use the Meter marks to make yourself a good braking spot so that you can take the hairpin at speeds of no more than 50 mph. Use out-and-in, fast-out, and cross the finish line. Going too fast or accelerating while taking on this hairpin results in a course-out. This test is hectic because you have to cope with the Supra's fat and understeer. ======================================================================== CLUBMAN CUP Number of Tracks: 3 Laps per Track: 2 Required Class License: A-Class Restriction of Car Type: None Tracks involved: Autumn Ring, Clubman Stage Route 5, Trial Mountain Pole Position Bonus: 2500 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 7000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: Chevrolet Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: The Clubman Cup is the next championship that you want to participate once you have mastered all the B-Class Championship events provided that you have obtained your A-Class License. Advanced Skills are a must here because you're bound to meet up with even more powerful cars than in the Sunday Cup. Something to worry about would have to be the Trial Mountain, which is the track that really tests your racing prowess here in Gran Turismo as a whole. I suggest that you have your car tuned up to the max before going inside this race. Here's what my recommended procedures would be if you are to participate in this second level Gran Turismo League Circuit: 1. Buy a new Mitsubishi Eclipse. Although you may be bitch-slapping me for this, it's a steady way to earn your domination in this event. 2. With the Mitsubishi Eclipse, gain your potential by racing in the Sunday Cup and on the Front Wheel Drive Special Event. 3. When you have just about enough dough, it's time to go to the Ralli Art at Mitsubishi! 4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later). Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com: * Buy the Sports Muffler * Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller * Buy any Turbo Kit (I do recommend Turbo Kit Level 3 but any Turbo Kit is a must!) * Buy the Racing Intercooler kit * Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit * Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car * Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing * Buy Soft Racing Support Tires * Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable) * Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction * Transform your Mitsubishi Eclipse into a Racing Eclipse! Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com. 5. Once you've got your Eclipse tuned up to the Max, it's time to go kick some ass in the Clubman Cup! 6. This portion of this work will assume that you're driving a kick- ass Mitsubishi Eclipse, extremely tuned or Racing-compliant. Please change your strategies depending on the car that you're in. 7. When you're in a Rear-Wheel Drive Car, try not to overspin the rear tires as this tends to be grounds to spin-out habitually. Always ease up on turns when you're in a rear-wheel drive car. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ AUTUMN RING Turn 1 ------ This is a terrible hairpin. I would try not to slide here since I would risk going inside the grass (something that you don't want to do anyway) so it's important that you cut down your speed ahead of time, but beware that the straightaway is gruesomely long so you may have to cut your speed as soon as you see the hairpin signs. I would say about no more than 47 mph would be a safe speed. Higher speeds are possible here, but my experimentation is limited. Turn 2 ------ Take this turn from the out-and-in. Sliding a bit would be acceptable as long as you don't go too fast. Please be aware that you do have to deal with these two damn chicanes afterwards, so I wouldn't try to go bonkers on acceleration. Turns 3-6 --------- This is an excellent area to really mess up so make sure that you try not to touch the grass as it will cut your speed significantly and you may even lose control of the car. You may wish to use out-and-in but try not to go too fast since these chicanes are rather sharp. On the sixth turn, you should try to prepare for the seventh turn, so don't go bonkers on accelerating. Try to keep a straight racing line here for the best results. Turn 7 ------ Sliding is acceptable here as long as you don't go too fast and as long as you are starting the turn from the outside. Right after this turn, have the car straightened, and please behold of the eighth turn since it's a hairpin, and you've arrived in a really gruesome straight. Turn 8 ------ Make sure that you slow down ahead of time or you'll be going on the grass and possibly suffer a wall hit. Since this hairpin is really tight, don't go any faster than 40 mph. If you have raced in the Autumnring-Mini many times, then this should be familiar. Turn 9 ------ Take this turn from the out-and-in. Although this hairpin isn't as severe as turns 1 or 8, you need to be watching your speed at all costs because if you go too fast, then you'll be landing right at the grass. I would say that about 55 mph would be a safe speed, though I can't stress the target speed too much. Turn 10 ------- If you are a careful driver, then you can overtake this turn at full speed, but you may or may not need to cut your speed depending on how early you take this turn. Turn 11 ------- Here's a turn worth worrying about. When you see the Mazda Speed sign hit the top of the screen, cut your speed to ~50 mph and try to keep a smooth racing line for speed. Try not to burn the tires because this is a place where your cornering prowess shows. Turn 12-14 ---------- Beware! These chicanes are even sharper than the chicanes carried over from the Autumn Ring Mini Course! For control, I would slow down ahead of time and take the left turn smoothly, and treat turns 13 and 14 as one single turn. I would try to drift on turn 13 and 14, but this is just an observation because you may need to adjust your technique depending on how hot you want to take this turn. Turn 15 ------- Yep, another sharp. I would drift from the outside and go into the inside and by the time I finish drifting, I should have the car straightened. When taking on this sharp, avoid contact with the grass at the left. Turns 16&17 ----------- This ess can be taken at full speed provided that you're a careful driver. Please adjust your skill in this section of this FAQ if you are just new to Autumn Ring. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CLUBMAN STAGE ROUTE 5 Turn 1 ------ I would slow down just a *bit* so I can prepare to take on Turn 2 without any braking, but you can take this turn in full speed provided that your speed isn't exceeding the safe speed at Turn 2. Turn 2 ------ I would say that ~90 mph would be a safe speed here. You can try higher speeds depending on the car that you are in and depending on your driving prowess. You should try to do *controlled* braking here so you don't go over 100 mph which seems to be unsafe for normal and modified cars. Turn 3 ------ Drift from the outside and into the inside. You should be at the right side of the track in preparation for Turn 4, which is pretty dangerous. Don't go bonkers accelerating here because you have Turn 4 to worry about immediately after this turn. Turn 4 ------ You should try to cut your speed to ~60 mph here. Slow down ahead of time and take this turn from the out-and-in. Don't slow down too late or you may be slamming into the wall really hard. Turn 5 ------ Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn. Turns 6&7 --------- This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control. Turn 8 ------ Slow down ahead of time and start the turn from the right. Begin drifting when appropriate. Try not to go bonkers sliding because you'll slam into the wall. Don't accelerate because you have Turn 9 to deal with next. Turn 9 ------ This turn is sharper than Turn 8. As with Turn 8, take this turn out-and-in and by drifting. You need to go slower than in Turn 9 (but not too slow that the drones are harassing you) in order to set up for the acceleration at the straightaway. When you overtake Turn 1 on the next lap, you need to slow down at Turn 1 so you can keep a smooth racing line at Turn 2. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRIAL MOUNTAIN This is a pain in the ass. Enough said. Turn 1&2 -------- This ess can be taken in full speed. However, I wouldn't recommend going faster than ~120 because the left turn is filled with a slant that leaves a lot to be desired. Turns 3&4 --------- Providing that you turn ahead of time, these turns can be taken at full speed. Don't grow too overconfident because you have Turn 5 to chew at immediately in the middle of Turn 4. Turn 5 ------ For control, I would try to slow down as early as appropriate so I don't touch the grass after this turn. This is a devious hairpin and you shouldn't take out this hairpin too hot. Afterwards, you will be taking a dip as you straighten up the car. A note from Vestiroth: Even though I touched the grass after the turn, I've managed to get my car back into gear in preparation of Turn 6. Turn 6 ------ Slow down to ~50 mph so you can take on this sharp right without having to touch the grass at your left. Cut your speed preferrably after the dip (but you have to allow more time depending on what car you drive) and take this turn from the out and in. Turns 7&8 --------- Keep a smooth driving line because you'll be carrying more control at Turn 9. If you slip out of control, then I don't have an idea on how you will be taking Turn 9. Turn 9 ------ I wouldn't take this turn any faster than ~80 mph. I would take this turn with some slight skidding. I should have the car straightened up by the time I undertake Turn 10. Don't slow down too much here as this turn isn't sharp as you think it's supposed to be. Turn 10 ------- Slow down to ~80 mph just before you exit the tunnel, skid throughout nearly all of the turn. By the time you reach the straightaway, you should have the car straightened up. On Turn 11, you'll have to slow down ahead of time since this straightaway is gruesomely long. Turn 11 ------- By the time you see some sections of this turn, slow down to ~70 mph, and try to cut the apex but don't scrape the wall. Sliding's OK as long as you don't go too fast. Turns 12&13 ----------- Keep a smooth driving line because you'll need the control you need by the time you reach Turn 14, which is a deadly hairpin. Remember, the more control you carry towards Turn 14, the better you will corner. Turn 14 ------- You need to be going no faster than 70 mph to avoid a possible wall hit at the left. At the right of you is grass, which you should try to avoid. You should try to slow down as soon as you finish Turn 13 so you won't have to worry a lot about the wall or the grass. Don't start the turn too early or you'll lawnmown to the max. Turn 15 ------- This is a great way to slow down ahead of time. Cut your speed to ~60 mph and start the turn from the out and take the turn from the inside. You should have the car straightened up and you should be back on the right by the time you are at the final stretch. Turns 16&17 ----------- This Ess is much harder than the first Ess. You should try not to go any faster than 110 mph. Slow down as you are getting closer to the Ess, and try to turn ahead of time so that you don't touch the grass on either side of the track. If you took the turns too early, then you may be taking an unneccessary dip that may throw you out of control. ======================================================================== GT CUP Number of Tracks: 4 Laps per Track: 3 Required Class License: A-Class Restriction of Car Type: No restriction on the car you want to use in this championship. Tracks involved: Grand Valley Speedway, Special Stage Route 5, Deep Forest, Trial Mountain (WHY?!) Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 25000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: A Toyota Chaser Limited Edition is what you get for winning the series. Sell this lemon back to Toyota because this is a car that you don't want. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: The GT Cup is the first track to feature insanely tuned cars which can pose a threat to your domination potential if you don't have the correct car with you. Entering this track, I'm assuming that you *can* afford a Toyota Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition. I highly recommend the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition. On the other hand, the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition isn't good because of its poor top speed (160 mph). If you do have one, the I would either throw the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo, a Mitsubishi GTO MR, or any car that is powerful enough to blow the shit out of the drones, but stable enough to keep a smooth racing line. Why not use this series to build up your skill in preparation of the Japanese-American Sports Car series so you can get the kick-ass Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition? Here's my recommendations before you enter this course: 1. Develop your well-being even further in Gran Turismo in the Sunday or Clubman Cup (I recommend the Clubman Cup because I'm assuming that you *do* have the A-Class License). Gain all the skills you want so you can take them to test in the Gran Turismo Cup. 2. I'm hoping that you have severe amount of dough in your pocket because I'm gonna lead you to the most expensive models in the game. Also, I'm gonna push you to severely tune up any car that was purchased as a normal car. Ready? 3. Once you get 500,000 credits, I'm hoping that you'll shop around for either a Toyota Castrol Supra GT, a Mitsubishi GTO Limited Edition, a Nissan Nismo GT-R Limited Edition, a Mazda RX-7 Limited Edition, a Subaru Impreza Limited Edition (the only low point I have of this car is its rather mediocre top speed), or an Acura NSX-R Limited Edition GT2. If not, then look around for a Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec or a Mitsubishi GTO MR_Twin Turbo. Heavily tune them up so you can hit over 800 horses! Now make them race-proud so you can get a loving disadvantage against the competition! You're going to do some heavy dough spending while trying to tune up your Nissan Skyline GT-R VSpec and/or your Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo/MR, so have credits ready to burn. 4. With these cars, get used to them by racing several times at the Clubman Cup. Once you get used to them, it's time to blow their poor arses away at the GT Cup. Another Note from Vestiroth: The reason why I want you to have the best possible cars is because I want you to have an unfair advantage against the competition. Unfair is best. You'll notice that. :) 5. This portion of the FAQ assumes that you're using the rather mediocre Subaru Impreza Rally Edition. Although the top speed leaves a lot to be desired, it's still a formidable car to have. 6. You need to adjust your skills just a bit from this FAQ depending on the car that you are riding on. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY SPEEDWAY Grand Valley Speedway is 15 times harder than Grand Valley East because there's plenty sharp turns and two hairpins that compel you to slow down as early as you can because you're bound to enter these hairpins at high speeds. Now, as a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition driver, beginners need some assistance in order to complete this track without heavy damage. Turn 1 ------ Being dizzy right after starting will make you uncomfortable on the second turn, which is a hairpin. You'll want to cut your speed as soon as you finish up taking on the gentle left so that you'll have your speed *reasonably* reduced by the time you take on the first hairpin turn in the track. Turn 2 ------ If you were able to cut your speed (I recommend releasing the gas pedal and by the time you hit the *slight* straight brake to ~60 mph and do some sliding) as you were taking on the first turn in preparation of this hairpin, then great. If not, then be prepared to either touch the dirt or deal with a spinout! It's important that you cut your speed (if you're going over 120 mph at the start of Turn 1) as early as Turn 1, and start reacting by the time you reach Turn 2 so you can allow some room for error by the time you reach the next straight, a gateway to a rather gruesome S-curve coming up. Turns 3-5 --------- Although this Ess can be taken at full speed, be aware that you'll need to probably be sliding on Turn 5 in order to avoid any unwanted dipping and contact with the racing slant at the left or right side of the track. If you did not turn ahead of time at Turn 5, then you're bound to touch some grass, and eventually wind up spinning out of control. You'll need to be in good shape when you take on Turn 6, which is a bad-ass hairpin. Turn 6 ------ Ancient words of wisdom: Slow down ahead of time for control. By the start of the hairpin, your speed shouldn't be exceeding 42 mph. Take the hairpin from the outside and slowly move to the inside, but don't touch the slant as you'll take an unwanted dip right there. Don't let the next straight fool you as you'll have to take on a rather *sharp* left. Turn 7 ------ I would slide this lamer and start sliding from the outside of the turn and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are *next* to the slant, but not touching it. I should be staying near the leftmost side of the track when I finish this turn because Turn 8 is coming up. Turn 8 ------ As with Turn 7, I would slide and take this turn from the outside and work my way to the inside, making sure that my wheels are near the slant (but not touching it), and continue to stay near the rightmost side of the track because Turn 9 is coming up, and believe me, Turn 9 is a sharp left (a carryover from the Sunday Cup and all other B-Class Races). Turn 8 is indeed a lot deadlier than Turn 7 so you may have to go slower on this turn as opposed to Turn 7. Turn 9 ------ Deadly Sharp Left. Before you enter this turn, make sure that you're not going any faster than ~50 mph. Start the turn from the outside, work your way inside. If you performed this turn correctly, then you should *barely* miss the wall. If you took this turn lousy, then be prepared to hit the wall or spin out. Try not to slide here because that's where beginners tend to overspeed and overslide, causing major spinouts and problems that may show your vulnerability towards your opponents. Turn 10 ------- As deadly as this painfully sharp left may seem, it seems to be a *bad* hairpin in disguise (but shouldn't be that bad). Try to slow down as early as you can so you don't have to overslide and spin out on this turn. I would say that ~60 mph would be safe (safe enough to avoid the grass at the right), though my experimentation's been limited. If you are going too fast or skidding too sloppy, then a nice Tunnel Wall is waiting for you at the start of Turn 11. Turn 11 ------- If you have taken Turn 10 neatly, great. At Turn 11, don't go any slower than 90 mph. I would slide throughout the turn and possibly use a *little* rapid gas tapping so that I don't accelerate until after the turn finishes and the straightaway begins. Use the straight before Turn 12 efficiently because at Turn 12, you'll have to cut your speed *just a little* before the straight terminates. Turn 12 ------- Is your speed cut to ~110 by the time the turn started? Well, do some *controlled* rapid gas tapping as the turn keeps "going and going" and refrain from accelerating until the turn ends. Failure to do this will result in rail contact at the left, which may damage your tires. Turns 13 and 14 --------------- No matter what kind of Gran Turismo Player you consider yourself, this is something to worry about in Grand Valley Speedway. Cut your speed to ~74 mph *as* you enter the first turn. Drift throughout the first turn using out-and-in. You should not be going over ~60 mph on average during the first turn, although I'm saying ~74 mph (you lose speed as you slide). On Turn 14, cut your speed to around ~50 mph, take the turn from the out-and-in, and refrain from accelerating until after you complete this turn. You should be at around ~40 mph by the time your at the final stretch (You tend to lose lots of speed here, so don't go too fast as these turns are hairpins in nature). Turn 15 ------- The key here is to take this turn without any unneccessary slowing down or having to touch the grass on either side. I would say that ~130 mph with some sliding (assuming that you started turning as the turn starts) would be safe enough to avoid the slant and grass at the left. On the second and third lap, you'll need to be careful when taking on Turns 1 and 2 because you may be at about 175 mph (on Class A Cars) by the time you enter this area once again. Don't act like a drunk driver in this track because the competition's much more powerful than in the Sunday and Clubman Cup. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ DEEP FOREST I think Deep Forest is horrible for the following reason: GRASS AND EVEN MORE GRASS EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!! It's important that you don't wind up going in the grass as you will lose speed while taking a turn, so make sure that you do your very best to avoid the grass at all costs. Turn 1 ------ A shitty way to start this course is with a BAD HAIRPIN. Cut your speed during the two hairpin signs and if you don't want to skid, don't go any faster than 60 mph, but if you want to skid, then you may want to say about 70 mph, although my experimentation is rather limited. Turns 2&3 --------- Keep you car under control, and definitely stay off the grass at the left and right side of the screen because that's when your worries begin. Turn 3 is more sarcastic than Turn 2, so you may have to slow down at either Turn 2 or 3 to keep your car under control. However, you will have to worry about Turn 4 because Turn 4 is a rather *sharp* left that you have to chew on, and you got a killer tunnel coming up just before Turn 5. Turn 4 ------ Cut your speed *immediately* after you exit Turn 3, but don't slant the wheels to the left because you'll hit the wall and touch the grass so make sure that you're slanting the front wheels to the right as you prepare for this turn. You need to be going no faster than 65 mph and you should try to drift as much as you can in order to avoid any grass contact and possibly a hit right at the tunnel entrance wall, which causes serious delays. Turn 5 ------ You should be ready to drift from this corner as soon as you are about to exit the tunnel. Cut your speed *as you leave the tunnel* and drift on this turn. I would say that 72 mph would be reasonable but you can take this turn at higher speeds, although I don't recommend taking this turn too hot. Turn 6 & 7 ---------- You will have yet another sharp to deal with so don't go overconfident with the easy right. Try to slow down as early as just before the easy right so you'll have control by the time you hit the sharp left. You shouldn't be going any faster than roughly 50 mph by the time you hit Turn 7. Be careful that you don't go inside the grass. By the time you enter the interlude before Turn 8, you should have the car straightened up. Turn 8 ------ Although this turn can be taken at full speed, I strongly recommend that you take this turn with some *controlled* braking and steering, just a precaution that you don't hit the wall at the right. If you done the drifting and braking right, then you should be able to avoid the wall at the right. Turns 9-11 ---------- This part of the track is as close as a straightaway you'll find in this track, so use this part of the track wisely. Make sure that you are turning *slightly* during the easy turns, making sure that you are not hitting the walls. Turn 11 is where you should be doing the worry abouties because you're going to face a fierce left right after the easy right, so be sure that you're slowing down as you are about to finish the easy right but not too early that you're losing control of the car. Turn 12 ------- If you have done a *controlled* slowing down as early as the conclusion of Turn 11, then you should begin to do even more braking. You should be drifting a little as you undertake this turn. I would say that 80 mph would be a good speed, but you need to be drifting so you can avoid the grass at the right. Please don't accelerate until you finish taking on this turn. If you slow down too late, then you're bound to hit walls and mow some grass! Turn 13 ------- Take this turn at full speed, trying to avoid the grass. By the time you finish this turn, you don't have to worry about the grass at the left and right side of the track anymore. JOY! Turn 14 ------- Cut your speed to ~120 mph and I would take this turn by out-and-in, and with heavy skidding. When you get inside of the straightaway, you need to have the car straightened. Gotta be careful when drifting because poor timing of taking this final turn will result in either unnecessary dipping or grass contact, which ruins your performance greatly. I'm trying to make sure that you're staying competitive here. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 Turn 1 ------ Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2. Turn 2 ------ Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that 115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking if appropriate. Turn 3 ------ Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3 starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with the turn. Turn 4 ------ Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up, and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal experience. Turn 5 ------ Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn. Turns 6&7 --------- This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control. You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry. Turns 8&9 --------- The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding. You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may cause a spin-out. Turn 10 ------- Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin. Turn 11 ------- You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any trouble. Turn 12 ------- Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!! Turns 13-15 ----------- Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle. Turn 16 ------- Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to stance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRIAL MOUNTAIN You should be familiar with this course because you're actually doing a skill transfer from the Clubman Cup to the GT Cup. The tactics you saw on the Clubman Cup portion of this FAQ was for the Mitsubishi Eclipse. Now you'll have to perform an extra lap, and now I'm using the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on this course! Entering this course, you should be able to handle the rough turns in this course efficiently. Learn how Trial Mountain's supposed to be done at the Clubman Cup. Turn 1&2 -------- Take the left turn from the out and in, making sure that you're turning ahead of time. Please be aware that you may bounce when you try to cut the apex on the first part of the ess so be prepared to keep a firm grip of the steering wheel. The second part of the ess can be taken at full speed provided that you've been under control of your car at the first part of the ess. For control, I wouldn't go any faster than ~120 mph with some *controlled* steering applied here. Turns 3&4 --------- You should be able to take Turn 3 at full speed. However, when you undertake Turn 4, you should try to prepare to take Turn 5 so you don't end up hitting the wall or grass after the tunnel. Try to cut your speed as soon as you get a fair view of the tunnel so you don't skid too hard. Turn 5 ------ You shouldn't be going any faster than ~60 mph-~70 mph while inside the tunnel. Be sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Now I will have to warn you that *you will be taking a dip* right after this turn so you will need to keep a firm grip of your car providing that you finish undertaking this turn. Turn 6 ------ Don't ever, ever, ever go any faster than ~50 mph because if you do, then you could either hit the wall or mown the grass (something that you don't want to do). Slow down as you are taking a slight dip, then begin drifting as soon as you get to your desired speed. Try to take the turn from the out-and-in so you will have a great deal of speed to chew in by the time you exit this turn. If you get inside the grass, make sure that you get out of this grass as soon as you can. Please don't accelerate until after the turn. Turns 7&8 --------- You can take these turns at full speed, but make sure that you're alert of Turn 9, which comes up shortly after this gentle ess. Cut your speed as soon as you exit out of Turn 8. Turn 9 ------ Cut your speed to ~90 mph ahead of time and as the turn starts, you should try to skid as much as you can during this turn (although you shouldn't do this because you're melting the tires). Once you're in the tunnel, you should try to prepare to undertake Turn 10 so that you're not so wrapped up in your success of undertaking this turn. Vestiroth: On Trial Mountain, you should not be overconfident after you undertake any turn successfully because there's bound to be turns following the next, which makes this course a test of racing prowess. Turn 10 ------- Brake to no less than 80 mph and start skidding inside to the next tunnel. Although this turn isn't difficult, you need to be sliding and your speed must not be exceeding 85 mph by all means. Please make sure that your taking this turn as early as possible so you'll have some speed to chew from at the long straightaway. Vestiroth: Trust me. You'll hate the Impreza Rally Edition for its 160 mph barrier after driving this lamer on the straight before Turn 11. Turn 11 ------- The best time to cut your speed is when you see some sections of this rather sharp turn. When the turn's about to start, you should be at no more than 90 mph, skidding throughout most of the turn, and never accelerating until after the turn. If you can go inside the yellow OSHA lane, then it's a good thing because you're attempting to keep a smooth racing line, something that's important in Gran Turismo. Turns 12&13 ----------- Since you're inside a four-wheel driver, you should have no problem keeping a smooth racing line in preparation of Turn 14. Turn 13 seems to be more dangerous than Turn 12 because the turn's sharper than in Turn 12, but the turn shouldn't be too bad providing that you're alert of the turn at all times. Turn 14 ------- Ancient words of wisdom: Don't go any faster than 70 mph. Cut your speed as soon as you finish Turn 13 (but don't brake the car that you're slanting to the left side of the track). Cut the apex but don't go inside the grass. Try to skid as much as you can in this hairpin. By the time you get out of this turn, you should have barely missed the edge of the track, and you should have the car straightened. Don't let the straight fool you because you're about to face yet ANOTHER HAIRPIN in the *blue*. Turn 15 ------- You will be carrying a good amount of speed if you try to keep a smooth line as much as you can in this turn. Try not to drift because not only you will burn and melt the tires, but you risk going inside the grass which you don't want to do. So keep a smooth racing line. Slow down as soon as you see some sections of the hairpin (but don't slow down too early). Take the turn from the outside and into the inside. You shouldn't be going any faster than ~70 mph. By the time you exit the turn, you should be accelerating and staying alert of the final ess, which IMHO is the worst part of Trial Mountain. Turns 16&17 ----------- Don't go any faster than 110 mph here. Try to cut both Esses from the out and in, making sure that you turn ahead of time to avoid any dipping and jumping (which is unnessary) from the brink of error. The best time to slow down is just a *little* after you pass the tunnel. Keep the car straight whenever you slow down because if you slant the car while you brake, you may end up screwing up big time! Vestiroth: This is the horrible area of the game because there's grass on both sides of the ess, and you may take an unneccessary jump if you go inside the grass and eventually lose control, so don't take this ess at full speed. ======================================================================== JAPANESE AND AMERICAN CAR CHAMPIONSHIP Number of Tracks: 5 Laps per Track: 3 Required Class License: A-Class Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru, Nissan, Mazda, Chevrolet, and Dodge brand cars only. Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11 Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: You usually get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition, a kick-ass car that you can have in two colors. To get the Dodge Viper GTS-R, win this series two consecutive times. I *urge* you to keep both the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition and the Dodge Viper GTS-R once you earned them because they're kick ass cars. The FTO LM is great for this series (as well as the British and Japanese Sports Car Championships), and the Viper is a good choice on the Clubman Cup, Front Engine Rear Drive Car Championships, and the American and British Sports Car Championships, although the TVR Cerbera is the car of choice in the British and American Sports Car Championships. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: This is a nuisance because you've got some Racing Cars to deal with. In order to keep up with the competition, I would really rely on a powerful Japanese Car because they seem to handle much bettern than the Americans do. Since the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition is such a kick-ass car, you will need a very powerful car in order to dominate the series. Here's what to do in order to kick some ass in this championship: 1. Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo. I like All-Wheel Drive cars. You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you these $#!^ notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as much as I want you to. If you won a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition earlier on, then you should throw this car on this course. 2. If you purchased the Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo, then try to improve your skills at the GT Cup. Hopefully, you've got a Toyota Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage to dominate the GT Cup! Use these cars to earn your dough on the GT Cup. 3. Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art! 4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later). Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com: * Buy the Sports Muffler * Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller * Buy any Turbo Kit. The Level 4 Kit kicks ass! * Buy the Racing Intercooler kit * Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit * Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car * Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing * Buy Soft Racing Support Tires * Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable) * Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction * Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer! Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com. 5. From this point on, you can throw this car on any of these circuits: - Japanese and American Car Championship - Japanese and British Car Championship - Megaspeed Championship 6. Hopefully, this car should be pumped up so you can kick ass in this circuit! Although the handling on the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo kinda sucks, you should have some sheer speed on this course. 7. This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned, racing-compliant Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo. You will need to change your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE Trial Mountain Reverse is even harder than the original Trial Mountain, and beginners will need to follow this guide in order to get away from this track without much damage. All Country versus Country races begin in this track, and that's one of the reasons why the series can get bloody at times. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess. Turn 3 ------ Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in straight condition when you take on Turn 4. Turn 4 ------ Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7. Turn 7 ------ You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Turn 8 ------ Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns, do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say that 100 mph would be safe for this turn. Turn 9 ------ The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need to adjust this based upon your expertise. Turns 10 and 11 --------------- Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin. Turn 12 ------- You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line, making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows this turn almost immediately. Turn 13 ------- You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car straightened and regained control of your vehicle. Turn 14 ------- Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns 15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast. Turns 15 and 16 --------------- The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to cross the finish line, you should be back in control. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 Turn 1 ------ Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2. Turn 2 ------ Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that 115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking if appropriate. Turn 3 ------ Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3 starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with the turn. Turn 4 ------ Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up, and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal experience. Turn 5 ------ Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn. Turns 6&7 --------- This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control. You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry. Turns 8&9 --------- The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding. You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may cause a spin-out. Turn 10 ------- Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin. Turn 11 ------- You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any trouble. Turn 12 ------- Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!! Turns 13-15 ----------- Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle. Turn 16 ------- Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to stance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HIGH SPEED RING The High Speed Ring is an easy course to lose in if you're inside a lame vehicle like the Honda Civic and the Chevrolet Camaro. You will need to keep a straight racing line as much as possible so you don't fall behind the competition who shows no mercy here because they tend to show their prowess and if you goof up, chances are that you won't be able to win. Advancing to the High Speed Ring, I'm assuming that you do know how to drive a Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo with all the works. Learn how to drive a heavily-chachinated Mitsubishi GTO at the Megaspeed Cup. Turn 1 ------ Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting the wall at the right by the time the turn ends. Turn 2 ------ You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4 without much trouble. Have the car straightened. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around 90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs. Turn 5 ------ Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the inside. Turn 6 ------ Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall at the right. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns, you should be doing fine. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100 mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just before you take on Turn 3. Turn 3 ------ This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience. Turns 4 and 5 ------------- No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine. Turn 6 ------ Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires. Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. Turn 7 ------ The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen up your racing line for speed in this area. Turn 10 ------- Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever appropriate for your safety. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 Special Stage Route 11 is where the championship is decided at. There tends to be underclassmen who will score more points than in the other tracks if you underestimate them, so you have to make sure that you are not taking any turns too harsh because all of them are blind. Learn this track at the Front-Engine, Front-Drive Car Championships. Turn 1 ------ This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the turn that you forget turning in the second turn. Turn 2 ------ Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11 is laden with sharps). Don't be starting the turn too early as you may hit the right wall. Be sure that you drift here so that you can maintain your speed. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6. The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without any blatant skidding. Try not to do too much slowing down since you're inside an AWD Vehicle. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires. Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp. Watch out for the slant just before Turn 6 starts. Skid through Turn 6, and then get ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin. Turn 7 ------ Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this killer hairpin. Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the wall at the left. You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather dangerous since you're wearing your left tires. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift throughout most of the turn. Be sure that you are not drifting this turn too hot as this will result in a spinout. You can hug the right wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat. Turns 10-13 ----------- Pain-in-the-ass corridor. You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall. Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without hitting the wall. Keep a smooth racing line right here. Turns 14 and 15 --------------- These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15 and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17, which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane. Turns 16 and 17 --------------- If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15), then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left. Turn 18 ------- A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here. The key to passing this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here. Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it. Turn 19 ------- There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right. Be sure that you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start Turns 20 and 21. Turns 20 and 21 --------------- I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you. Turn 22 ------- Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com) but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit. Turns 23 and 24 --------------- You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23 in order to avoid sloppy screwups. Brake from the left side of the track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23 begins, keep a smooth racing line. A good feel of the gas, brakes, and the steering wheel is required. Turn 25 ------- Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel of the gas and the pedal is required here. ======================================================================== JAPANESE AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP Number of Tracks: 5 Laps per Track: 3 Required Class License: A-Class Restriction of Car Type: Mitsubishi, Honda, Acura, Toyota, Subaru, Nissan, Mazda, Aston Martin, and TVR brand cars only. Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11 Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: I got a rather lame Civic Del Sol Limited Edition so far. I don't like Mid-Engine, Rear-Wheel Drive cars. Sell this car back to Honda. IMHO Handling is more important than bad ass mid-rear cars. To get the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition (a kick-ass car from Great Britain), win this series two consecutive times. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: All of these nation versus nation sports car series are identical, but since I'm a rather tight strategist, I'm gonna base sections of this FAQ based upon the car I drive. Here's what you need to do before getting inside the Japanese and British Car Championship: 1. Buy a new Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo. I like All-Wheel Drive cars. You may think that I'm out of this world because I'm telling you these $#!^ notes, but hey, I want you to dominate the series as much as I want you to. 2. Improve your skills at the GT Cup. Hopefully, you've got a Toyota Castrol Supra GT or a Subaru Impreza Rally Edition on your garage to dominate the GT Cup! Use these cars to earn your dough on the GT Cup. 3. Try to have as many credits as you can because you're going to do some expensive tuning at the Ralli Art! 4. Here's what I want you do from this point on (Remember if you can't afford for these parts earlier on, you can always come back later). Keep in mind that these are only my recommendations so you should experience with different parts throughout your gameplay. I'm thankful to Sam Davis (sdavis1@mail.wsu.edu) because I'm writing this FAQ without my Gran Turismo Reference Guide! Please read his Menu Translation Guide at GameFAQs.com: * Buy the Sports Muffler * Buy the Sports Brake Kit and Brake Balance Controller * Buy any Turbo Kit. The Level 4 Kit kicks ass! * Buy the Racing Intercooler kit * Buy the Racing Support Suspension Kit * Buy Hard Stabilizer Kits on both sides of the car * Buy Computer Engine Tune-up, Port Polishing, and Engine Balancing * Buy Soft Racing Support Tires * Buy Racing Support Gearbox, Triple Clutch, Racing Flywheel, and a Carbon Driveshaft (if applicable) * Undergo all stages of Weight Reduction * Transform your Mitsubishi GTO Twinturbo into a 240 mph screamer! Remember you can read Sam Davis's Gran Turismo Menu Translation Guide if you need a better description of these at http://www.gamefaqs.com. 5. From this point, you should be practicing dominating the Megaspeed championships because you should be able to have a heavily-tuned, racing-modified Mitsubishi GTO TwinTurbo. I reached 242 mph on the Test Course during the Megaspeed Championship. How about that? 6. Once you got used to the Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo long enough, throw this car in the Japanese and American Car championships, and laugh hard by dominating the series. You should be able to Pole Position on all five courses, and you should place 1st on all the five courses, and your car should be powerful enough to overwhelm the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, which is a key concern in the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships. 7. If you can win the Japanese and American Car series, you should receive a Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition. It's an All-Wheel Drive racer, but it's easier to control and handle than the seemingly hard-to-get-used-to GTO Twinturbo. 8. This part of the FAQ assumes that you're driving a heavily-tuned, racing-compliant Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition. You will need to change your strategies a bit if you are driving other cars. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE With the Mitsubishi FTO in your possesion, you should be able to take on Trial Mountain Reverse without any problems (as opposed to the GTO Twin Turbo undergoing lots of mods and Castrol Stickers). You still need to utilize all of your driving potential here in order to fry the competition to a crisp, though. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess. Turn 3 ------ Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in straight condition when you take on Turn 4. Turn 4 ------ Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7. Turn 7 ------ You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Turn 8 ------ Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns, do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say that 100 mph would be safe for this turn. Turn 9 ------ The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need to adjust this based upon your expertise. Turns 10 and 11 --------------- Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin. Turn 12 ------- You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line, making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows this turn almost immediately. Turn 13 ------- You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car straightened and regained control of your vehicle. Turn 14 ------- Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns 15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast. Turns 15 and 16 --------------- The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to cross the finish line, you should be back in control. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 Turn 1 ------ Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2. Turn 2 ------ Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that 115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking if appropriate. Turn 3 ------ Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3 starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with the turn. Turn 4 ------ Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up, and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal experience. Turn 5 ------ Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn. Turns 6&7 --------- This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control. You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry. Turns 8&9 --------- The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding. You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may cause a spin-out. Turn 10 ------- Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin. Turn 11 ------- You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any trouble. Turn 12 ------- Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!! Turns 13-15 ----------- Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle. Turn 16 ------- Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to stance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HIGH SPEED RING Although this seems to be a terrible course for you to enter (mainly because some of the British Cars tend to pose a higher threat level than they do in the other tracks), you can Pole Position and win the track if you are a skilled TVR Cerbera Limited Edition driver or if you took the time to make the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition your slave. Taking turns smoothly and avoiding any blatant skidding will ensure that no one will oppose your racing authority during this course. Turn 1 ------ Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting the wall at the right by the time the turn ends. Turn 2 ------ You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4 without much trouble. Have the car straightened. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around 90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs. Turn 5 ------ Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the inside. Turn 6 ------ Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall at the right. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns, you should be doing fine. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100 mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just before you take on Turn 3. Turn 3 ------ This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience. Turns 4 and 5 ------------- No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine. Turn 6 ------ Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires. Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. Turn 7 ------ The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high speed without any speed loss and without too much skidding. A good feel of the gas pedal, brake, and wheel will allow you to smoothen up your racing line for speed in this area. Turn 10 ------- Cut your speed to 60 mph just before the turn begins. Brake at a straight line for control, and begin turning when you are comfy enough. Don't overdo your drift as you may overspin your rear wheels. The key here is to drift to the inside of this turn without any wheelspin. You may have to speed out during this turn whenever appropriate for your safety. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 11 If there's a track that will push me to use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition for the Japanese and British Car Championships, then it would be this course. It's array of blind turns, tight curves, and bizarre corridors makes this track reserved for All Wheel Drive cars only. Turn 1 ------ This turn can be taken at full speed. Just don't get so greedy in the turn that you forget turning in the second turn. Turn 2 ------ Slow down from the outside. Then as the turn begins, slide throughout most of the turn (although you may have to hit the wall, it takes practice to avoid the wall in this course since Special Stage Route 11 is laden with sharps). Don't be starting the turn too early as you may hit the right wall. Be sure that you drift here so that you can maintain your speed. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- It may be *necessary* (but shouldn't be that bad) to slow down, but don't do too much slowing down as you may risk spinning the rear wheels blatantly. Do a slide and you'll be risking hitting a wall at the left or hitting the gas canisters just before Turns 5 and 6. The key to undertaking this turn would be to take this turn with the smoothest possible line without slowing down too much and without any blatant skidding. Try not to do too much slowing down since you're inside an AWD Vehicle. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to skid both turns, and make sure that you are not going too fast on these turns, since you are in risk of spinning out the rear tires. Have the car straightened as you complete a sharp. Watch out for the slant just before Turn 6 starts. Skid through Turn 6, and then get ready for Turn 7, which is a hairpin. Turn 7 ------ Try to slow down just as the turn starts so you can skid through this killer hairpin. Slide throughout the turn and don't accelerate until you're confident that you won't spin out and that you will not hit the wall at the left. You can hug the left wall as you take on this turn for increased speed, but that takes too much timing, and it's rather dangerous since you're wearing your left tires. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Turn 8 can be taken at full speed. Turn 9 is a sharp left that you will have to slow down just before the turn starts so that you can drift throughout most of the turn. Be sure that you are not drifting this turn too hot as this will result in a spinout. You can hug the right wall in order to take this turn with increased speed, but that's rather dangerous since you risk wearing out the right tires trying to cheat. Turns 10-13 ----------- Pain-in-the-ass corridor. You may want to cut your speed to around 80 mph so you don't end up hitting the wall. Don't get into a bad skid here as you will need every inch of control in order to make through this corridor without hitting the wall. Keep a smooth racing line right here. Turns 14 and 15 --------------- These turns can be taken at full speed, but you need to use Turn 15 and the *slight* straightaway in order to prepare for Turns 16 and 17, which comes in *just about* immediately, so you will need the car straightened up in preparation for speed reduction for the next chicane. Turns 16 and 17 --------------- If you used the brake while on a lousy position (from Turns 14 and 15), then you're in for a spinout. Keep the car running straight, release the gas pedal, and at around 40-50 mph, I would take on the first half of the chicane from the out and in but I have to immediately swerve my car to the left because I'm in for the next chicane. By the time I turn at Turn 18, I should *be able* to have the car straightened up and ready to drift at the next medium or sharp left. Turn 18 ------- A good feel of the gas and pedal is required here. The key to passing this turn is to keep a smooth racing line with a good feel of the gas pedal without any blatant slowing down or any unnecessary drifting here. Apex cutting is acceptable, as long as you are not sloppy taking it. Turn 19 ------- There's some easy slants just before this painful hairpin. You may wish to do the "Cheating Bastard" maneuver by leaning at the outside of the track and then with zest timing lean to the right *just right* and pedal to the metal. You must time your wheel yanks correctly in order to cheat on this hairpin. However, you risk having to wear out your tires and may face a possible spinout by all means, so an alternative to the Cheating Bastard maneuver (BTW it's Jaz Rignall of PSM Online who came up with the idea of the Cheating Bastard), brake as the left slant concludes *hard*, and yank the car to the right. Be sure that you have the car counterbanked and straightened by the time you start Turns 20 and 21. Turns 20 and 21 --------------- I would treat these two sharps as one turn. Time your drift so that you just *hit* the right wall and that you can have room to straighten up your car by the time Turn 22 (hairpin) begins. A bad drift or a sloppy undertake would result in the competition catching up with you. Turn 22 ------- Here, the Cheating Bastard maneuver works here, but it's easier to do the Cheating Bastard maneuver in this hairpin than in Turn 19 because you don't have to contend with some slants before the hairpin. This applies to the first hairpin just before the tunnel. As the right hairpin starts, go way outside, and with zest timing, turn right just right, and pedal to the metal. Becoming a cheating bastard takes time because you need the right timing in order to take on the hairpin at dangerous speeds (Once again, Jaz Rignall of http://www.psmonline.com) but it's easier to do with the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition since All Wheel Drive improves your timing a *little* bit. Turns 23 and 24 --------------- You need to slow down to under 45 mph when you see sections of Turn 23 in order to avoid sloppy screwups. Brake from the left side of the track and as you see sections of Turn 23, brake *hard* and as Turn 23 begins, keep a smooth racing line. A good feel of the gas, brakes, and the steering wheel is required. Turn 25 ------- Keep your speed to around 100 mph at this final turn. Speed out from the turn if you are going to get closer to the left wall. A good feel of the gas and the pedal is required here. ======================================================================== AMERICAN AND BRITISH CAR CHAMPIONSHIP Number of Tracks: 5 Laps per Track: 3 Required Class License: A-Class Restriction of Car Type: Dodge, Chevrolet, TVR, and Aston Martin brand cars only. Tracks involved: Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High Speed Ring, Grand Valley East Reverse, Special Stage Route 11 Pole Position Bonus: 5000 Credits Finish First in the Track Bonus: 10000 Credits Series Winner Bonus: 20000 Credits Car you get for winning the race: So far I got an RX-7 A-Spec Limited Edition. Dump this crappy Mazda back to Mazda. I would go for the bad ass Mazda RX-7 LM which you can buy for 500,000 credits. You can also get a Chrysler Concept Car for winning this race (I got it when I beat this course using the Viper GTS-R). Dump the Concept Car. It sucks. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Vestiroth's note: This is IMHO the worst among the nation versus nation sport car series because you're only allowed to use American and British cars, all which are rear-wheel drive cars. Since you're bound to lose some fire on this series (because you're bound to hit some walls or spin out as you learn how to dominate this course), I have tried to mix a good blend of speed and handling as much as I can. You need to place first on four out of 5 courses in order to win. You may wind up losing on Special Stage Route 11 because this course tests your ability to be a competent driver rather than on speed. In order to make sure that you PLACE FIRST IN AT LEAST the Trial Mountain Reverse, Special Stage Route 5, High Speed Ring, and the Grand Valley East Reverse, here's my recommendations before entering this hell-filled series: 1. Win the Japanese and American Sports Car Championships two *consecutive* times to get the Viper GTS-R. The first time you win the championship, you should get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition. To get the Dodge Viper GTS-R, you will need to win the series two consecutive times. Use the overpsyched Mitsubishi GTO Twin Turbo for the first time, and use the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to burn the competition on your second time around. You may need to use an overpsyched Nissan Skyline GT-R if you want the Dodge Viper GTS-R (I got the Viper GTS-R for winning the series using the GT-R). 2. Once you get the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition car (for your first time), save it on your Memory Card. This is one of the better cars in the game and you'll be left in the dark without it, so be sure you save the car once you checked your garage for this kick-ass prize! After saving the game on the memory card, buy a Nissan GT-R V-Spec, overpsyche it (it'll take you too many credits, so you need lots of credits before entering both Nissan and the Nismo), then throw this car in the Japanese and American Sports Car championship. 3. Once you win the championship two times in a row (providing that you checked your garage for a Dodge Viper GTS-R and you saved the Viper GTS-R on your Memory Card), throw the Mitsubishi FTO Limited Edition to the Japanese and British Car Championship. Win two times in a row (there's actually no need to change cars, the FTO LM's all the firepower you need) to get both the Honda Civic Del Sol Limited Edition and Britain's proud TVR Cerbera Limited Edition. 4. Save the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition on your memory card. Get used to the TVR or Viper on the Sunday Cup or a Spot Race. Once you get used to these kick-ass cars, then throw either the Viper or the TVR on the American and British Car championships. Some people say that the Viper GTS-R rules in this race, but the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition's more formidable than the Viper because it's good balance of speed, power, weight, and handling makes the TVR a must-have car next to the FTO Limited Edition. 5. Be sure that you rest your PlayStation 30 minutes after 2 hours of consecutive gameplay so that your PlayStation starts out fresh by the time you start out with the American and British Sports Car championships. 6. IMHO The Viper GTS-R should be used by beginners. If records are what you want, then the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition's something that you shouldn't leave home without. 7. Since all American and British Cars are rear-drive cars, the key to *zest* cornering is lots of respect. Don't try to brake in bad shape as you'll spin out. You need to brake as early as you can in order to take on the most vicious turns on some of the harder tracks like Special Stage Route 11. 8. I'm gonna assume that you're either inside the Viper GTS-R or inside the TVR Cerbera Limited Edition. With regards with the Viper, I'll try to strike a balance between control and handling so that you don't wind up spinning out too often. Remember that the Viper is heavier than the TVR, so you'll have to brake earlier on certain hairpins in the series. I prefer the TVR because it's fast, strong, and most importantly, light. Change your strategies if you decide to hop inside other cars other than the Viper GTS-R or TVR Cerbera Limited Edition. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRIAL MOUNTAIN REVERSE I have no clue on how you will be able to beat this track since you are inside either a Dodge Viper or a TVR Cerbera Limited Edition. You need to slow down ahead of time to avoid any sloppy skidding or overspin of the rear tires to keep track with the rather pain-in-the-ass competition. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to success in these turns is to cut the apex as much as possible without touching the slant and without any blatant slowdown. I would say that 100 mph (approx) would be safe, although higher speeds may be possible, depending on your expertise and racing prowess. Turn 3 ------ Cut your speed to around 70 mph and take this turn from the outside to the inside. Try not to touch the slant at the right side of the track since this makes your car unstable. You should have the car back in straight condition when you take on Turn 4. Turn 4 ------ Do the same thing as with Turn 3, but this time around, stay off the slant at the left side of the track, since your car may "bounce" up and down (causing you to lose control). Sliding's acceptable, as long as you don't turn too sloppy on this turn. Turns 5 and 6 ------------- Try to keep a smooth racing line as much as you can to maximize speed and make sure that you stay off the walls (since they may be a problem to most of you). Gently turn ahead of time as each turn starts and by the time you finish Turn 6, you should have the car in straight standing to prepare yourself for Turn 7. Turn 7 ------ You will be able to get inside the rightmost side of the track if you can slow down ahead of time. I would say that around 80 mph would be safe. Make sure that you do not accelerate until after the turn. Turn 8 ------ Since I'm inside an All Wheel Drive car, I would brake while I'm inside the tunnel, and begin turning as the tunnel ends. As with all turns, do not accelerate until after you're confident enough that you're not gonna be hitting any slants as you enter another tunnel. I would say that 100 mph would be safe for this turn. Turn 9 ------ The key to undertaking this turn is to skid here without any blatant loss of speed. I would say that just *a little* under 90 mph would be fine to avoid hitting any wall or touching any grass, although you need to adjust this based upon your expertise. Turns 10 and 11 --------------- Ease up on these turns as much as you can. By the time you finish up taking on Turn 11, you need to have your car in a straight line in order to slow down at Turn 12, which is a deadly hairpin. Turn 12 ------- You will carry more control if you cut your speed in a straight line, making sure that you are not over 50 mph as you take on this turn, and you cut the apex (while avoiding the walls, grass, and slants). Do not accelerate until after the turn. Please be aware that Turn 13 follows this turn almost immediately. Turn 13 ------- You need to start drifting just before the dip. Yank the car to the right *just right* in order to avoid hitting the slant or going off the track. By the time you finish this turn, you should have the car straightened and regained control of your vehicle. Turn 14 ------- Start turning ahead of time, and move from the left side of the track to the right side of the track. You should be careful not to hit the slant at the right side of the track as you may take an unnecessary dip. You will need as much control as you can when you reach Turns 15 and 16, so negotiate this turn with zest, and don't go too fast. Turns 15 and 16 --------------- The key to success on these turns is to cut the apex of each of these turns without any contact with the slants, and by going around 120 mph during both of these turns. When the left turn starts, yank the wheel gently, and when the right turn starts, you may need to apply some braking and drift during the final turn. By the time you're ready to cross the finish line, you should be back in control. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ SPECIAL STAGE ROUTE 5 Turn 1 ------ Although you can take this turn in full speed, you need to start your slowing down as early as this turn so you can take Turn 2 without having to hit the wall, which wears out your tires. It's important that you slow down as early as Turn 1 so you will not be hitting the tunnel wall or slanting the car at an unnecessary position during Turn 2. Turn 2 ------ Since I'm riding on the Subaru Impreza Rally Edition, I would say that 115 mph would be a safe speed. Rapid tap the gas pedal so you don't wind up scrapping the right wall. You might have to apply some braking if appropriate. Turn 3 ------ Take the turn from the out-and-in. Controlled braking should keep your car under control and prepared for Turn 4. As long as you skid, you should not be hitting the wall. If you are inside by the time Turn 3 starts, then I don't have an idea on how you will be able to cope with the turn. Turn 4 ------ Slow ahead of time by braking hard as the turn begins, skid as much as you can, but don't skid too much here because Turn 5 is coming up, and you want to take this turn as smooth as you can. I would say the ideal speed here would be ~70 mph with some skidding, but that would throw you at the inside by the time you reach Turn 5, so you have to adjust your tactic on this crappy turn depending on your own personal experience. Turn 5 ------ Providing that you have taken Turn 4 smoothly, this turn can be taken with some acceleration. If you taken Turn 4 horribly, then I don't have a friggin' clue on how you'll be able to take this turn. Turns 6&7 --------- This ess can be taken at full speed providing that you are turning ahead of time and providing that you are taking the turn from the out-and-in. Please try to keep a smooth racing line here because this turns out to be one of the areas where beginners lose control. You need to be careful not to hit the railing by the time you complete Turn 7 because if you do, then you'll be sorry. Turns 8&9 --------- The following two turns can be taken with some controlled skidding. You should try to brake hard ahead of time at Turn 8 so that you don't hit the left wall. Make sure that your car is in good shape so that you can skid Turn 9 without any problems. Taking the turns out-and-in style is OK as long as you don't start the turn too early, which may cause a spin-out. Turn 10 ------- Killer Hairpin. Brake *HARD* so you can take this hairpin without hitting the wall. Don't undertake this hairpin too early or that mistake would mean your last. Don't skid as you may risk hitting the wall at the right. I would say that 40 mph without skidding would be safe. Don't use full acceleration until after you pass the hairpin. Turn 11 ------- You may wish to accelerate in this turn, but IMHO you need to be skidding here so you don't have to hit the wall at the left side of the track, so be prepared to drift as you accelerate back to your usual speed. By the time you are about to reach Turn 12, you should have the car straightened so you can drift once again without any trouble. Turn 12 ------- Take this turn from the out-and-in, and drift with zest so you don't hit the wall at the left or lose any much needed control. It's important that you have the car straightened up by the time you meet up with the worst area in the track--THE FINAL STRETCH!!!! Turns 13-15 ----------- Worst part of the track. You need to slow down as early as the painted crosswalk so you can set up for Turn 15, which is a rather nasty right. Try not to go any faster than 60 mph on the first two turns, and when you are about to take Turn 15, you need to be drifting with zest and not accelerating until you have the car straightened up but I find this part to be pretty nasty because your timing may be poor by the time you enter this area. This part really demands good timing and practice in order to avoid hitting the walls during the triangle. Turn 16 ------- Pretty long Medium Right. You may need to do some skidding, or you may not go any faster than 85 mph because this seems to be sharper than I thought. You can skid, as long as you don't go too fast. Don't try to accelerate until after the turn and after you have the car back to stance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ HIGH SPEED RING Unless you're inside the wheel of a mighty Dodge Viper GTS-R or a TVR Cerbera Limited Edition, you will find yourself in dead last once you finished this course because all of the cars tend to pose a vital threat to your racing dominance in the series. You need to average about 147 mph all around in order to win this track, and avoid any blatant goof- offs or spinouts in order to keep up with the competition. Turn 1 ------ Take this turn at full speed. Be sure at the final stretch of the turn that you *slightly* slow down so you don't have to worry about hitting the wall at the right by the time the turn ends. Turn 2 ------ You may want to brake as late as possible so that you can skid here at higher speeds. Be sure that you are taking this turn out-and-in, and by the time you leave the turn, you should prepare for Turns 3 and 4 without much trouble. Have the car straightened. Turns 3 and 4 ------------- You may have to do some *blatant* slow down here since these turns are the most dangerous turns in the track. I would cut my speed to around 90 mph so I won't be touching the grass or hitting the wall. Try to do some rapid gas tapping in this area. A feel of the gas is required to ensure control of the Mitsubishi GTO at all costs. Turn 5 ------ Provided that you took Turns 3 and 4 without any blatant trouble, this would be a good place to prepare for Turn 6. Stay to the right side of the track, making sure that you *barely* miss the grass at the right side of the track. When Turn 6 starts, you should try to slow down in a straight line and start taking Turn 6 from the outside and into the inside. Turn 6 ------ Provided that you have slowed down to ~120 mph, you can take this turn without having to release the gas pedal. Make sure that you speed out if necessary if you feel that you're going to get closer to the wall at the right. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ GRAND VALLEY EAST REVERSE Much bizarre than Grand Valley East, GVE Reverse provides some weird turns, but as long as you don't overspin your tires during harsh turns, you should be doing fine. Turns 1 and 2 ------------- The key to taking these two turns is to control your speed without any blatant slowdown or wheelspin. A reasonable speed here would be 100 mph (my experimentation here is rather limited, so bear with me) with some skidding, but you will need to have the car straightened up just before you take on Turn 3. Turn 3 ------ This turn is pretty damn sharp, so it's important that you slow down to about 80 mph just before the turn starts so you can cut the apex of the turn. You may want to experiment with some sliding here, but you need to adjust this strategy depending on your experience. Turns 4 and 5 ------------- No blatant slowing down allowed. Try to maintain high speed without wheelspin or blatant skidding. The key here would be to start these turns as early as you can so you maintain your out-and-in routine. Turn 6 ------ Turn 6 is where beginners tend to bite the dust. Cut your speed to *below* 50 mph just before the Tunnel terminates. When the turn begins, you should try to cut the apex as much as you can, but don't hit the wall at the right or you may overspin the rear tires. Sliding's acceptable as long as you don't overdo it. Turn 7 ------ The key to taking this turn would be to cut the apex without using the brakes too much and with a good feel of the gas pedal. Stay inside of the track for as much as you can, making sure that your wheels are touching the slant, *barely* missing the grass. Turns 8 and 9 ------------- Keep a smooth racing line at all times. You can go full speed at Turn 8, but you may have to do some skidding (be sure to turn before the turn starts) on Turn 9. Here, the key is to maintain a high speed without